On a
recent warm Sunday afternoon, a woman and her traveling
companion stopped by Ruby’s Kitchen on N. Reynolds Road. She
was middle-aged, I assumed, with well-cropped graying
naturally-blond hair. I overheard her mention to the
waitress that she was traveling from Chicago to Buffalo, New
York and that she always makes it a point to stop at this
particular restaurant whenever she travels and is near to
Toledo.
The way
that black people cook food, despite the protestations of
some fitness gurus, is one of the unique gifts,
contributions, talents, and cultural blessings that have
been poured out upon people of African heritage. But the
distinctiveness of black cooking isn’t just limited to
traditional African-American dishes such as greens, fried
chicken, or black-eyed peas.
Many
European-associated dishes have gone through a process of
what my friend and retired Wilberforce University chief of
police Rev. David Fox calls “blackenization.” While
sociologists term the phenomenon “acculturation,” I refer to
the process as adding “the sauce.”
It happens
at the intersection of two or more cultures and is the
innate ability of those with an African heritage to adapt
aspects of the majority culture without losing their own
African traditions and customs.
One such
“sauced” European dish is the stringy, cordlike form of
pasta associated with Italian cuisine better known as
spaghetti. Rumor has it that spaghetti may have originated
around 2,000 B.C. in northern Africa and brought to Europe
in the 12th century and then to America in the 19th
century. It remains, even today, a staple of Italian
cuisine.
Yet, you
will most likely find spaghetti on the menu of every
soulfood restaurant in America.
What is
the difference in majority spaghetti and “blackenized”
spaghetti? Of course, it’s all about having a great sauce.
Blackenized sauce must be:
1.
Synthesized with the pasta:
Good
blackenized spaghetti requires that a tomato-based sauce be
mixed in with the pasta rather than separated and placed on
top or on the side. Blending the sauce allows it to become
absorbed by the pasta so that the flavors can build, be
allowed to meld and ultimately become intensified.
2.
Smooth
A good
pot of spaghetti also begins with a sauce which needs to be
“smooth” rather than “sour” or too tart. Adding just a
“hint” of sugar and some extra virgin olive oil will break
up the acidity that often leads to indigestion. Remember,
though, that spaghetti that is too sweet is anathema to
many. The secret is to add only enough sugar to break up the
acidity and not so much that the spaghetti actually tastes
sweet.
3.
Seasoned
Rather
than meat balls, blackenized spaghetti utilizes generous
amounts of highly seasoned chunky or coarsely-chopped meat
in the sauce. For a large pot of spaghetti, start with 4
lbs. of a lean cut of ground beef, such as ground chuck and
1 ½ lbs. of Italian sausage. Then, season the meat with
onion powder, celery seed, fresh onions, bell pepper, fresh
garlic, kosher salt, freshly ground pepper and a very small
amount of oregano, thyme or Italian seasoning. A bay leaf
added to the sauce also provides an extra layer of flavor.
4.
Paired with a classic Southern Sidekick
Fried
chicken wings or fried fish work perfectly. My friend
Councilwoman Yvonne Harper loves fried catfish. We might
have agreed on this particular issue, except I prefer
catfish filet rather whole fish bone-in, which suits the
councilwoman’s fancy. Season the fish directly with kosher
salt and lemon pepper and dredge in equal parts cornmeal and
flour (egg and buttermilk wash are optional) and fry in very
hot “grease” (peanut oil).
5. About
Sitting Back and letting it flow
Relax
with the food, grown folks’ music, Pepsi or grape soda,
while talking smack with Yvonne Harper or brother Andre
Washington for a good time!
Oh, and
remember – “It’s all about the sauce!”
For the
entire recipe, please contact me:
Contact Rev. Donald Perryman, D.Min, at
drdlperryman@centerofhopebaptist.org
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